Scottish Independent Hostels Blog

In Patagonia the views and weather are both world class and extremely changeable. We arrived in Puerto Natales from the ferry about a week ago now. The time has been taken up trekking in the Torres del Paine National Park For folk such as myself, I find this a breath of fresh air. In Scotland the countryside generally and National Parks in particular rely on handouts from the government or voluntary contributions. Consequently they suffer from a distinct lack of facilities.

By comparison the Torres del Paine Chilean National Park charges for entrance and the benefits are obvious. Good paths, signage, viewpoints, toilets and campsites. All in an area which does not show the signs of people dropping too much (if any) trash.

Unfortunately, back home, the minority groups would complain about charging for access, even if it maintained and sustained the quality of the experience for the majority. What soap-box? Me? All views expressed here are mine only and do not represent Scottish Independent Hostels in any way.

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Torres del Paine just after dawn. The best pictures are to be found away from the main 'circuit' or 'W' trekking route.

Twisted Southern Beechwoods, amongst the hardiest trees in Patagonia.


The classic view above Campemanto Torres. Arrive early to possibly see the pink or orange glow on the granite towers. It doesn't last long. We were late and missed the spectacle. Take warm clothes as it can be a touch cold. There are plenty of spots to bivouac if you really want the best chance of catching the sunrise, but take a good sleeping bag.



We trekked parts of the classic 'W' circuit. The southern section travels along the shores of Lago Nordenskjold.


This was the best shot we achieved of a pair of Condor cruising above the towers.




Camping for free in the shelter of the Southern Beechwoods, 50 minutes beneath the viewpoint for the Central Towers of Paine. Toilets and shelter for cooking. Some campsites are free and others are charged, but also include access to meals in the adjacent huts. Even better than the European Alps.


Hosteria LasTorres base camp. Next door are hostels and campsites for those of us with less cash to 'burn'.


Plenty of wonderful colours amongst the spring growth.


This one (Cactus ?) is fondly known as 'Mother-in-Laws Cushion' . No known escape from awesome pain if you trip into this patch.


Huemul Deer. Only 5000 left and we saw two in different locations.


Plenty of opportunities to use horses for approach es to mountain trails.


Torres Paine National Park Chile.




'BIG' winds. Invisible boulders of giant proportions scream towards the sheltered campsites, amongst the Southern Beechwoods of Patagonia. Revealing themselves in clouds of scattered spume as the wind scoops aloft the lakeside foam.

Trashed tents after the winds have travelled through. Be sure to gain the shelter beneath the trees and scrub if you wish to stay in good shape. The noise is incredible, but passes by, leaving a standing camp, if well sited.

Poorly planted tents lay forlorn and torn amongst the brittle thorns of the low-lying scrub. We were using a Terra Nova, Voyager tent. Cheap tents are not to be recommended for trekking in Patagonia.

Interesting clouds


Torres Paine under threatening skies



We completed only part of the 'W'. Starting at Hosteria Las Torres, staying at Campamento Torres, then descending to camp at Hosteria Las Torres. This was followed by a camp at Los Cuernos. We finally took the Catamaran out from Lodge de Montana to camp at Camping Pehoe and the bus back to Puerto Natales.


Many trekking companies lay on all the facilities required, including tents, sleeping bags and food. All you need to carry are your waterproofs, some spare clothes and of course your large fat wallet and a camera. Most items are very cheap if you are coming from Europe or North America.

Camping next to the Lodge de Montana Paine Grande Once again, accommodation and facilities to suit all tastes and budget.

A short thirty minute trip on Lago Pehoe leads away towards the bus transport.


Hotel Explora Just a little out of our price range and style. We did pop in for a cup of coffee though! This hotel is well back from the main trekking routes as are all the large facilities. In the main season though, it will be hard to avoid crowds of people out enjoying this world class location.

Fortunately it is all sensibly managed and we did not see much evidence of poor trekking etiquette. Some of you reading this will no doubt disagree and hold the view that these remote and wild locations should be left to nature and no access encouragement offered to the masses. I certainly do not wish to see blatant exploitation on a huge scale. 'Honeypot' areas such as this, well managed and funded, will provide employment for many and in fact keep the masses away from the majority of the less well known wilder trekking routes. As in Scotland, it will always be possible to avoid the crowds if you have the skill and energy to hike a little further down the next glen. Believe me, it works, even in Torres del Paine.

Guanacos getting it all together.

A fragmented and splintered coast of remote and extreme proportions, unlike any other that
I have seen. South from Puerto Montt to Cape Horn may have been photographed from space, but much of the land has never trembled beneath the feet of mankind. The hinterland beyond the sheer shorelines must surely have repulsed exploration by simply looking fierce, unapproachable and impenetrable. The nomadic seafaring families of the 'First Families' rarely if ever went beyond the rocky beaches. Neither did they set up communities along this stretch of wild land, forced by the shape of nature to wander the myriad coastal inlets as a way of life in
search of sustenance. They were healthy and hardy people, able to withstand the cold, wind and drenching rain, which we would often struggle to remain alive in. Only later were they threatened and finally changed by the usual encroachment of global colonialism of which all of those who read this simple text are a part.

Check it out folks and as the 'Lonely Planet' says....."Explore the rugged beauty of one of the world's few remaining truly remote areas".... In doing so you will be part of the change which could erode only the edges of this wonderful land. Here you will see nature able to look after itself, so long as it is heavily 'managed' by organisations whose heart is in preservation rather than exploitation. That should not mean that we are denied access, only that the style of access leaves minimal (if any) trace. Tourism is undoubtedly part of the Chilean economy and must be encouraged without harm to the land.

Also, appreciate that change is part of nature's route. A nature that includes us at the top of the chain (?).

In the four days of our journey from circa Latitudes 41-51 Degrees South we saw only three other vessels, and one of those a wreck! We also stopped briefly at Puerto Eden to pick up additional passengers. Also, a coastguard helicopter skimmed close on the starboard quarter. Apart from these intrusions, the 250 lucky passengers aboard the Navimag Ferry (Evangelista) were treated to unusually splendid weather, as high pressure and southerly winds caressed our journey to Puerto Natales, gateway to modern Patagonian trekking.

Puerto Montt on the day of departure. Four glorious days ahead.


Many of the passengers imported drinks from ashore. The bar staff were very flexible to this means of staying in touch with an alcoholic haze and also served up those who preferred to purchase drinks on board.

Boarding at Navimag shore base.


A well-found vessel with all necessary regulation safety equipment.


The Captain and his crew were happy for guests to come onto the 'Bridge' and view proceedings.


'Cosy' is how I would describe the bunk rooms for four people!



Deck Chess never seemed to catch on, as most people enjoyed the sunshine and gathering remoteness all around.

Just one of many volcanoes.


A long lens pays dividends to draw in the distant mountain tops.



And that was only the end of day one :0))


At a number of channels the breadth of navigable room is limited. I believe we had around ten metres on either quarter at this point. Not surprising that a statue of Mary has been erected to protect mariners as they navigate this route. The ships horn was sounded as a mark of thankful respect!

Puerto Eden is one of the few communities along the whole of this four day journey and we stopped to unload supplies and pick up more passengers.

Puerto Eden

An unusual spell of settled weather is blessing our trip and we head out into the Gulf of Penas and a barely noticeable Pacific swell lifts the bows towards the lowering sun. Those on board who wisely bought remedies for sea-sickness sleep relieved and more calm than possibly they expected. The occasional lumpy sea is nothing to what might have been.

Waking early for the possibility of spectacular light on the mountains to the east is always worth the effort and on this trip the rewards were plenty. A solid area of high pressure was creating windless calm and plenty of sea mist (fog). The vessel carried on through sometimes clear or total fog-bound channels. The feature of a 'Brocken Spectre' is something I have witnessed many times in the mountains, but never from the upper decks of a sea-going vessel. It occurs when a strong back-lit sun casts your shadow onto mist beneath you. And as can be seen from the photo a halo effect is created.


Brocken Spectre





After the Polar regions of the Earth the Patagonian Helio Sur is the largest ice-cap around and defies the global pattern of reducing glaciers, as it grinds relentlessly towards the Patagonian Channels. Here we approached to a depth of 33 metres.




The stranded wreck of the Cotopaxi is now furnished with a navigation light to help those that follow to avoid its fate. They were unfortunate, as many of these sunken valleys reach depths over 1000 metres.


Chilean Coastguard Helicopter, skimming by to surprise the passengers, who up until this point had not heard or seen anything other than a wild and remote passage.


Heading out into the Gulf of Penas Normally a section of the trip which can be very rough, but on this occasion, pretty harmless and tranquil.

Hi folks. As a hostel owner in Scotland and currently helping to manage, develop and improve marketing and quality of our independent hostel members, hello from Chile. Sue and I are on a backpacking holiday in Chile and Argentina, so I thought it would be good to share our experience of traveling as backpackers in South America. Don't forget to support Scottish Independent Hostels when you visit Scotland

We were pleasantly surprised by Puerto Montt, although it would not be on our list of places to stay for more than a brief period. The main town is a good mix of modern facilities, whilst moving west one picks up a more 'local' flavour, whatever that means! The Navimag boarding area is well situated close to markets for tourists to spend last minute 'bucks' or just browsing the produce of Artisans.

We stayed at Hostal Pacifico More of a cheap hotel than a hostel as they had no kitchen for allowing guests to cook. Plenty of other options in the area though. Our double room with breakfast was only £10 each and clean, secure and tidy. Also, close to the Navimag Ferry terminal.

On the day of arrival at our hostel in Pucon, one of the guests was proudly showing the results of an afternoon's fishing, as he tucked into a Salmon steak.. Well, thought I, another activity to spice up the holiday and a meal included along the way. The hostel is Backpackers Pucon run by Claudio Carvacha, a local guide, who has climbed Volcano Villaricca 1500 times so far.

We booked in with Off Limits for the fishing, a well set-up local outfit. As usual a good friendly guide and good kit.

Rubber boots, waders and a 'drift boat'


We used a variety of 'wet' fly. Sue stayed with the first variety all day and caught the majority of the fish. Our guide tried many different types on my line, but to less effect.


More stunning kit to try out.


Home-made wet fly.



Rainbow Trout were pretty hard to find, but we managed a dozen or so. Most were pretty small, but some of them could have made a decent meal for one. We returned all of our catch.


Sue has never tried any sort of fishing before and just seemed to attract the majority of the catch. .."It's all just a matter of luck"...She said!


Apart from the fishing, the river was really tranquil and our guide would hold the dinghy above a suitable spot, whilst we allowed the fly lure to drift downstream. Plenty of bird life, including one very large and beautifully marked Kingfisher.




The countryside around Pucon is very green and similar in many ways to parts of New Zealand. It is spring time here just now and we are seeing a lot of similarity to a few plant species from Scotland, in particular the blast of yellow from Broom is exactly the same as we experience in late April or May at home.



Saving the best till last, here is the mighty beast which I dragged from the depths. Almost broke the line!!

Today we dived into the rafting scene for the afternoon and had a real buzz, with a good group of people. Pucon has loads of agencies offering rafting, but we organised the trip with Backpackers Pucon run by Claudio Carvacha We will have stayed in Claudios Backpackers Hostel for six nights and he can organise anything, if it exists. As usual all the kit was top-notch and the raft guides were really friendly and skilled.

The grade of the river was III at the maximum. We did line down one bigger grade IV/V run which had a really meaty looking stopper at the bottom.

Plenty of fun and competition between the two rafts of eight in each, plus the guides.


Good kit and very fetching.


Check the cut of the 'boxers'.


Don't worry Sue, nobody at home will see:0)))


A good group, happy at the end of the two hour trip. The outfitters even supplied Pisco Sour and cakes at the end of the run.


And, as always happens with these activities, the 'crew' finished up in/on the drink!!

We finally struck gold with a very well organised Outdoor Thermal Spring, about 36kms from Pucon in the rental car. We had been searching for a while, and some places were either shut or in a manicured swimming pool environment. Los Pozones has been developed in a very natural way, but still has basic changing facilities. All around are high gorge walls of a small, but swift flowing mountain river. Six different pools are set within shrubs and trees, with plenty of open grassy areas for relaxing after a very hot dip. Cold showers are readily available if you really wish to cool down. Entrance fee was around £4.00.

These thermals are really hot. About as hot as the hottest bath you can stand. Signs advise that is is not wise to stay in for longer than fifteen minutes before a cool rest.

The whole place is very well organised with a natural, rustic and easy going flavour.

Sue rarely likes cold showers!


Most people were strolling between pools, in between dips.


Very highly recommended by all people we spoke to.

Yesterday we climbed the Volcano Villaricca. The height gain from the road-head is around 1650 metres and the round trip is probably in the region of 12 kms. Therefore, not a climb for unfit people! We started early from Pucon at 0430 and made the summit around 1200. We rented very good equipment from Araucana Tours All tours can be organised from Backpackers Pucon run by Claudio Carvacha, a local guide, who has climbed Volcano Villaricca 1500 times so far. We have stayed in Claudios hostel for a week now and it is a good base. Very friendly with lots of passing backpackers.

View from the rim. More volcanoes

Volcano Villaricca dominates the adventure town of Pucon on a clear day.


Sunshine and smiles.


An hours sleep on the summit on the summit. Cold beneath and hot on the top!


Happy in descent. Plenty of snow mushrooms.


Earlier in he day, before fatigue sets in. However, starting early does avoid the blistering heat and slushy snow.



The route starts up through a ski area, which looks just great for novice skiers. It would also be fairly simple as a ski tour to the summit, with a straightforward descent. Uplift can make it even easier.



Happy in the knowledge that the summit is close.


In descent and still smiling at the views.



The best part of the day might just be the huge easy slopes that allow a 'BUM SLIDE' for long distances. In fact most tour companies provide .."Arse-covers".. that protect the fabric of the expensive mountain clothing, whilst allowing a simple slide with a good run-out. This has to be better than walking down through soft afternoon snow.


Formation 'Arse-sliding'. Ready, steady go! Don't forget to whoop. It's great fun.


All the groups we saw were kitted out really well, with good clothing, boots, crampons, axes and rucsacs. The tour companies in Pucon appear to do this for all the activities and that is just great.

It's actually raining today, in fact it's been pouring down most of the night! Still, not a problem for those of us who live on Scotland's west coast. After the arid desert of the north, this is a welcome return to more temperate climes. Those of you looking to check out what the weather is like in your part of Chile should log on to Chile Weather or BBC World Weather. We are now in the Lakes District, staying in Pucon for a few days, before catching the Navimag Ferry out of Puerto Montt on 19th. Needless to say we will be keeping a close watch on the weather for that journey. In the mean time we aim to hire a car for more independent travel in this region. As we aim to attempt to climb one or two local volcanoes, it might be a good idea to let the new snow settle in, or allow others to break a trail for our benefit!

Pucon is really geared towards outdoor tourism and as such reminds me of Queenstown or Banff. Plenty of swanky hotels and more basic stuff, with adventure outfitters and tour guides on every corner. We have found a superb spot at Backpackers Pucon run by Claudio Carvacha, a local guide, who has climbed Volcano Villaricca 1500 times so far. Claudio is helping us hire gear for our attempt tomorrow. Rising at around 0330 for an 0430 start. Best get to bed!

Woodpecker carvings feature highly around these parts.

Distant Volcano Villaricca

And a wee bit closer, cloaked in loads of new snow.

A modern town with plenty of accommodation and eating places to suit all tastes, plus a good supermarket if you want to cook for yourselves in the hostel.


Fancy beach-front hotels by the lake.


Check the figure on the right. Seems a little back to front!

After our 24 bus trip back from San Pedro we fitted in the short 90 minute trip to Valparaiso. Lonely Planet mentions the chaotic colours and the higgle-de-piggle-de layout of the houses on the hillside above the bay. They are not wrong, but unfortunately the sun did not shine for us. Even so the myriad colours brightened up the outlook. Just a shame about the amount of doggy-doos all over the place.

Valparaiso was originally a very important sea-faring stopover until the Panama Canal helped avoid the journey for ships through the remote and wild waters around Cape Horn. It is still a busy port with plenty of Naval and Cruise ships in evidence.

We stayed at Hostel Pilcomayo in an area littered with hostels and were perfectly happy, especially as the highlights of the Champion's League were on the tele and Manchester United cruised to the last sixteen after netting four more goals over Dynamo Kiev. Holidays are okay, but the essentials of life need to be looked after!



The area is famed for artistic interpretation in many forms.

Chaotic colours adorn every corner.


No apparent planning guidelines or logical layout adds to the atmosphere.


Alleyways covered in colour, both natural and from a tin of paint.



Vivid colour schemes surprise on every corner.


Old and not so old architecture are pushed together to form a kaleidoscope of shapes.


Lower down the hill are found modern concrete structures shaping the more welcoming background houses.




Graffiti (?) by the students on the outer wall of this school all adds to the welcome.


Lower down on the busy streets can be found good markets and plenty of food shops.


More up-market abodes lower down the hill.


A distant shot showing the general layout.


Also, the hillside is cut by a number of funicular railways, allowing quick and creaky access to the heights.

So far we have used the wonderful bus/coach network for long trips, which exists in Chile. Check out Tur-Bus for the various seat options. So far we have used Classic for short trips only, Semi-Cama for up to 6/7 hours and Cama for the really long trips and don't really see the need to upgrade to Premium Class. This company can easily compete with the Swiss for punctuality and I have never seen seats to compare for comfort, anywhere in the world. An overnight trip combines accommodation, travel and snacks. From San Pedro Atacama to Santiago was around 23/24 hours in Cama seats and we arrived pretty fresh.

One frustrating thing is that you cannot book online, unless you have a Chilean Passport. Unless of course any of you out there can let us know how.

Salon Cama. Coach comfort on an up market scale. £41 for a 23/24 hour trip including meals and a soft bunk for the night from San Pedro to Santiago.


Probably the best coach service in the world. Certainly better than Citylink back home in UK/Scotland. Our Daughter, Victoria has recently traveled extensive in Canada on Greyhound and says they just do not compare. Well done Chile and your coaches.

Semi-Cama seat shown


This one regularly travels to San Salvador

Man's best friend does have an apparently protected slot in Chile. The streets are full of dogs and nobody seems to bother them. In return, they seem oblivious to human presence and wag their tail at every opportunity. You will rarely if ever met anything other than a Heinz 57 species. Sue and I love dogs, as does Victoria, our Daughter, who is with us for a while. However some of these "mangy mutts" would not be appreciated back home. The real problem with the 215,000 'Jooks' who parade around the streets of Santiago is the proceeds from their back ends. Forty tons a day by all accounts 0:(

Anyway, as our trip progresses I will post various images of our canine pals in this section. They may look in need of TLC, but be assured they do survive and rarely falter at the pedestrian crossings on the busiest of thoroughfares. In Santiago we have used The Bellavista Hostel and La Chimba Hostel Both good places with plenty of good reviews from those that use them.


Shady in San Pedro


Shady in San Pedro

Sleep eat and sleep again. Looks like a Spaniel.


I wonder if the Queen would like this Corgi-cross?


Pups cannot sleep anyway. They will come to learn the finer art of survival in San Pedro Atacama.


Chilling in Santa Lucia - Santiago Park

Very friendly at Hostal La Ruca in San Pedro de Atacama. This one was very partial to Cheese rind and the closest to a pedigree Poodle we have seen so far.


Check out this 'Mut' walking the tiles in Punte Arenas

Although we are tonight at a hostel in Santiago, the details of our visit to the Elqui Valley a week or so ago have been missed. As I sit here with a glass of the cheapest alcoholic route to oblivion in my hand £2.00 for pint of Pisco Sour, it seems appropriate to post some images of the beautiful Elqui Valley

From La Serena we rented a car for a couple of days as a means of exploring the Elqui valley to the east. Irrigation has transformed this region and it is home to the company Pisco Capel who produce Pisco Sour, the national 'tipple'. This is very very easy to drink and mixes with all sorts to produce a fine cocktail. We stayed in Vicuna for a night at the very fine Hostal Valle Hermosa. From here we also took a tour to the Mamalluca Observatory
to explore the stars and the clear night sky for which Chile is so famous. Bookings were made directly through the office in town. Check out www.mammaluca.org Most nights are crystal clear but we did meet a few travellers whose trip had been cancelled due to a cloudy sky. Both of the tours we made in the valley were worthwhile and bi-lingual.


Careful irrigation has transformed the landscape and provides a perfect location for vineyards. This valley also supplies water to La Serena, only 50 kms downstream.





Monte Grande, near the head of the valley.

More on the three trips with Cactus Tours Lonely Planet recommend them and they are very good. We had two different guides on different days and they were very enthusiastic, friendly and knowledgeable. Thanks to Juan and Eric, plus Ivan the driver.

This day to the Geo-Thermal pools and Geysers leaves at 0430 hours and the trip up to 4500 metres takes a good couple of hours on bone-jarring roads, testing the suspension of even the best 4x4 vehicles. We were using a Mercedes Benz mini-bus, as were many of the tour companies.


This formation is named a 'Barnacle' (?) and is formed as the minerals rise up from the magma chamber deep underground and solidify as they reach cooler areas. The Geysers are seen at their best early in the morning, when the temperature can be as low as minus 15 Celsius. As the day progresses and heats up, the condensation reduces along with the spectacular plumes of steam








Laguna Miscanti

Vicunas. It's fur is just slightly thicker than Silk and strands are hollow, making it very warm


Vizcacha. Second only to a Chinchilla for the thickness of it's coat.

More on the three trips with Cactus Tours Lonely Planet recommend them and they are very good. We had two different guides on different days and they were very enthusiastic, friendly and knowledgeable. Thanks to Juan and Eric, plus Ivan the driver. Also check out San Pedro de Atacama for some more useful tips.

Sunset from the Big Dune on the the Moon Valley Tour (Valle de la Lune), looking towards Volcano Licancabur (5950 metres).

Laguna Minique and the ever present Vicuna

Andean Seagulls (Guallata Andina)

Two more birds :o))

Partridges

The flightless Rhea.

Sue and Victoria scan the view over Moon Valley

The view from below


Andean Fox


Lizard basking in the heat

An overnight coach trip (3rd November) of sixteen hours to San Pedro de Atacama and now relaxing on the patio at Hostal La Ruca in this desert village. Close to San Pedro is Calama, famous for the copper mine which can be located on the horizon beneath the constant dust cloud. Copper counts for nearly 47% of Chilean export and the mine is the world’s largest open pit copper mine. Of such importance is copper, that a whole village was evacuated in order to access
the valuable minerals beneath it!

From here we explore three trips with Cactus Tours Lonely Planet recommend them and they are very good. We had two different guides on different days and they were very enthusiastic, friendly and knowledgeable. Thanks to Juan and Eric, plus Ivan the driver.


Our Daughter, Victoria is with us for a couple of weeks and these four images of Pampas Grass and Cactus are from her latest Canon camera. Thanks.



All of the National Park areas here have an entrance fee and some strict guidelines about where you can and cannot walk. Although the usual popular sites are very busy, it appears that this vast region can soak up Adventure-Eco Tourism and still survive. Certainly, the income from tourism must be an asset worth developing, with a good infrastructure of facilities such as toilets, interpretive media and parking. The tours we used, deliberately stopped for meals
at local eating spots, even in the more remote villages. No Starbucks here folks! We are even finding it difficult to buy stamps for sending the obligatory postcards:)

Fortunately Email and Internet are prolific, although WiFi for the trusty laptop does not show up so often.

Flamingos and Avocets on the Salar de Atacama, Laguna Chaxa at sunrise

Flamingo on the Salar de Atacama, Laguna Chaxa at sunrise and the new 80-400mm VR zoom is starting to pay it's way, handheld.

Parque Nacional Pinguino de Humboldt - Bottle Nosed Dolphins

Returning to La Serena and the wonderful Hostal Maria's Casa we joined a day tour to the Parque Nacional Pinguino de Humboldt. This tour is easily organised through the hostel. We had tried this a couple of days earlier with the car on our own, but arrived too late in the day. Taking the tour was excellent value as our guide was both enthusiastic, friendly and knowledgeable. We saw loads of wildlife, including the Humboldt Penguin, Bottle Nosed Dolphin, Seal and Sea Lion and any amount of different sea birds. The trip lasts a full day from La Serena, leaving at 0800 and returning by 1800. Lunch is included at around 1500 after the boat trip, so take some snacks along and plenty of water.

Parque Nacional Pinguino de Humboldt - Sea Lions

Parque Nacional Pinguino de Humboldt - Sea Lions

Parque Nacional Pinguino de Humboldt - Sea Lions

Parque Nacional Pinguino de Humboldt - Sea Lions

Parque Nacional Pinguino de Humboldt - Humboldt Penguins


Parque Nacional Pinguino de Humboldt - Fruits of the sea. The yellow pipe in the sea is an airline used for accessing shellfish.