Scottish Independent Hostels Blog

A fragmented and splintered coast of remote and extreme proportions, unlike any other that
I have seen. South from Puerto Montt to Cape Horn may have been photographed from space, but much of the land has never trembled beneath the feet of mankind. The hinterland beyond the sheer shorelines must surely have repulsed exploration by simply looking fierce, unapproachable and impenetrable. The nomadic seafaring families of the 'First Families' rarely if ever went beyond the rocky beaches. Neither did they set up communities along this stretch of wild land, forced by the shape of nature to wander the myriad coastal inlets as a way of life in
search of sustenance. They were healthy and hardy people, able to withstand the cold, wind and drenching rain, which we would often struggle to remain alive in. Only later were they threatened and finally changed by the usual encroachment of global colonialism of which all of those who read this simple text are a part.

Check it out folks and as the 'Lonely Planet' says....."Explore the rugged beauty of one of the world's few remaining truly remote areas".... In doing so you will be part of the change which could erode only the edges of this wonderful land. Here you will see nature able to look after itself, so long as it is heavily 'managed' by organisations whose heart is in preservation rather than exploitation. That should not mean that we are denied access, only that the style of access leaves minimal (if any) trace. Tourism is undoubtedly part of the Chilean economy and must be encouraged without harm to the land.

Also, appreciate that change is part of nature's route. A nature that includes us at the top of the chain (?).

In the four days of our journey from circa Latitudes 41-51 Degrees South we saw only three other vessels, and one of those a wreck! We also stopped briefly at Puerto Eden to pick up additional passengers. Also, a coastguard helicopter skimmed close on the starboard quarter. Apart from these intrusions, the 250 lucky passengers aboard the Navimag Ferry (Evangelista) were treated to unusually splendid weather, as high pressure and southerly winds caressed our journey to Puerto Natales, gateway to modern Patagonian trekking.

Puerto Montt on the day of departure. Four glorious days ahead.


Many of the passengers imported drinks from ashore. The bar staff were very flexible to this means of staying in touch with an alcoholic haze and also served up those who preferred to purchase drinks on board.

Boarding at Navimag shore base.


A well-found vessel with all necessary regulation safety equipment.


The Captain and his crew were happy for guests to come onto the 'Bridge' and view proceedings.


'Cosy' is how I would describe the bunk rooms for four people!



Deck Chess never seemed to catch on, as most people enjoyed the sunshine and gathering remoteness all around.

Just one of many volcanoes.


A long lens pays dividends to draw in the distant mountain tops.



And that was only the end of day one :0))


At a number of channels the breadth of navigable room is limited. I believe we had around ten metres on either quarter at this point. Not surprising that a statue of Mary has been erected to protect mariners as they navigate this route. The ships horn was sounded as a mark of thankful respect!

Puerto Eden is one of the few communities along the whole of this four day journey and we stopped to unload supplies and pick up more passengers.

Puerto Eden

An unusual spell of settled weather is blessing our trip and we head out into the Gulf of Penas and a barely noticeable Pacific swell lifts the bows towards the lowering sun. Those on board who wisely bought remedies for sea-sickness sleep relieved and more calm than possibly they expected. The occasional lumpy sea is nothing to what might have been.

Waking early for the possibility of spectacular light on the mountains to the east is always worth the effort and on this trip the rewards were plenty. A solid area of high pressure was creating windless calm and plenty of sea mist (fog). The vessel carried on through sometimes clear or total fog-bound channels. The feature of a 'Brocken Spectre' is something I have witnessed many times in the mountains, but never from the upper decks of a sea-going vessel. It occurs when a strong back-lit sun casts your shadow onto mist beneath you. And as can be seen from the photo a halo effect is created.


Brocken Spectre





After the Polar regions of the Earth the Patagonian Helio Sur is the largest ice-cap around and defies the global pattern of reducing glaciers, as it grinds relentlessly towards the Patagonian Channels. Here we approached to a depth of 33 metres.




The stranded wreck of the Cotopaxi is now furnished with a navigation light to help those that follow to avoid its fate. They were unfortunate, as many of these sunken valleys reach depths over 1000 metres.


Chilean Coastguard Helicopter, skimming by to surprise the passengers, who up until this point had not heard or seen anything other than a wild and remote passage.


Heading out into the Gulf of Penas Normally a section of the trip which can be very rough, but on this occasion, pretty harmless and tranquil.