Scottish Independent Hostels Blog

In Patagonia the views and weather are both world class and extremely changeable. We arrived in Puerto Natales from the ferry about a week ago now. The time has been taken up trekking in the Torres del Paine National Park For folk such as myself, I find this a breath of fresh air. In Scotland the countryside generally and National Parks in particular rely on handouts from the government or voluntary contributions. Consequently they suffer from a distinct lack of facilities.

By comparison the Torres del Paine Chilean National Park charges for entrance and the benefits are obvious. Good paths, signage, viewpoints, toilets and campsites. All in an area which does not show the signs of people dropping too much (if any) trash.

Unfortunately, back home, the minority groups would complain about charging for access, even if it maintained and sustained the quality of the experience for the majority. What soap-box? Me? All views expressed here are mine only and do not represent Scottish Independent Hostels in any way.

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Torres del Paine just after dawn. The best pictures are to be found away from the main 'circuit' or 'W' trekking route.

Twisted Southern Beechwoods, amongst the hardiest trees in Patagonia.


The classic view above Campemanto Torres. Arrive early to possibly see the pink or orange glow on the granite towers. It doesn't last long. We were late and missed the spectacle. Take warm clothes as it can be a touch cold. There are plenty of spots to bivouac if you really want the best chance of catching the sunrise, but take a good sleeping bag.



We trekked parts of the classic 'W' circuit. The southern section travels along the shores of Lago Nordenskjold.


This was the best shot we achieved of a pair of Condor cruising above the towers.




Camping for free in the shelter of the Southern Beechwoods, 50 minutes beneath the viewpoint for the Central Towers of Paine. Toilets and shelter for cooking. Some campsites are free and others are charged, but also include access to meals in the adjacent huts. Even better than the European Alps.


Hosteria LasTorres base camp. Next door are hostels and campsites for those of us with less cash to 'burn'.


Plenty of wonderful colours amongst the spring growth.


This one (Cactus ?) is fondly known as 'Mother-in-Laws Cushion' . No known escape from awesome pain if you trip into this patch.


Huemul Deer. Only 5000 left and we saw two in different locations.


Plenty of opportunities to use horses for approach es to mountain trails.


Torres Paine National Park Chile.




'BIG' winds. Invisible boulders of giant proportions scream towards the sheltered campsites, amongst the Southern Beechwoods of Patagonia. Revealing themselves in clouds of scattered spume as the wind scoops aloft the lakeside foam.

Trashed tents after the winds have travelled through. Be sure to gain the shelter beneath the trees and scrub if you wish to stay in good shape. The noise is incredible, but passes by, leaving a standing camp, if well sited.

Poorly planted tents lay forlorn and torn amongst the brittle thorns of the low-lying scrub. We were using a Terra Nova, Voyager tent. Cheap tents are not to be recommended for trekking in Patagonia.

Interesting clouds


Torres Paine under threatening skies



We completed only part of the 'W'. Starting at Hosteria Las Torres, staying at Campamento Torres, then descending to camp at Hosteria Las Torres. This was followed by a camp at Los Cuernos. We finally took the Catamaran out from Lodge de Montana to camp at Camping Pehoe and the bus back to Puerto Natales.


Many trekking companies lay on all the facilities required, including tents, sleeping bags and food. All you need to carry are your waterproofs, some spare clothes and of course your large fat wallet and a camera. Most items are very cheap if you are coming from Europe or North America.

Camping next to the Lodge de Montana Paine Grande Once again, accommodation and facilities to suit all tastes and budget.

A short thirty minute trip on Lago Pehoe leads away towards the bus transport.


Hotel Explora Just a little out of our price range and style. We did pop in for a cup of coffee though! This hotel is well back from the main trekking routes as are all the large facilities. In the main season though, it will be hard to avoid crowds of people out enjoying this world class location.

Fortunately it is all sensibly managed and we did not see much evidence of poor trekking etiquette. Some of you reading this will no doubt disagree and hold the view that these remote and wild locations should be left to nature and no access encouragement offered to the masses. I certainly do not wish to see blatant exploitation on a huge scale. 'Honeypot' areas such as this, well managed and funded, will provide employment for many and in fact keep the masses away from the majority of the less well known wilder trekking routes. As in Scotland, it will always be possible to avoid the crowds if you have the skill and energy to hike a little further down the next glen. Believe me, it works, even in Torres del Paine.

Guanacos getting it all together.