Scottish Independent Hostels Blog

Hi folks. As a hostel owner in Scotland and currently helping to manage, develop and improve marketing and quality of our independent hostel members, hello from South America. Sue and I are on a backpacking holiday in Chile and Argentina, so I thought it would be good to share our experience of traveling as backpackers in South America. Don't forget to support Scottish Independent Hostels when you visit Scotland.

Please also consider sending in some details of your backpacking adventures, wherever they are in the world. Of most interest to our blog is Scotland, but don't be shy about anything connected with backpacking, wherever you land up. The grapevine is an essential tool for spreading the word, good and bad.

As our trip winds up we are heading north from Patagonia along the Argentinian coast, then inland towards Mendoza, back over the spine of the Andes and Santiago. We stopped off at Puerto Madryn to quickly explore the Valdez Peninsula and were not disappointed.

Many people will have seen film footage of Orca (Killer Whale) taking Seal, Penguin and Sea Lion from off of the beach. This is one of those locations! Fortunately for these Sea Lion and Elephant Seal, the Orca 'Pods' were elsewhere on this occasion.


This will be the last posting on this wonderful journey of ours. I will be going back through the blog and adding some stuff over the next week. So, if you have been following the diary it could be worth checking for some additions on earlier dates.

More nesting Magellan Penguins.

Petrel squabbling over a carcass. They appeared to be top of the 'pecking' order for scavenging amongst the birds at least, although Orca do take Petrel if they are in the mood.


Chepatagonia Hostel was our excellent accommodation in Puerto Madryn and thanks to Gabi for organising our trip onto the Valdez Peninsula.



Elephant Seal lazing in the sun and nearly ready to head of out to sea.





From one of natures most delicate forms to the most huge.


Southern Right Whale in a tail-spin.


This one really loved to put on a show as it breached only a few metres from our boat.

Fire is the one big hazard for the land all over Patagonia. This tree was burnt down by a trekker throwing away a cigarette butt.

Back home in Scotland, we encourage burial or removal of human waste and often burn toilet paper. In Patagonia it is frowned upon, as it can cause fire. We met quite a few situations where trekkers were dumping their plastic food wrappers in the pit toilets, instead of taking it out. If you pack it in heavy, it is no effort to pack out the lighter empty wrappers. Freedom of access is only reliant on acting responsibly


Argentinian roads are long and very straight, in fact it is completely possible not to turn a corner in hours of travel! The world land speed record could be annihilated on these strips of 'black-top'.

This one is approaching El Chalten, a dusty little town, which is the access to the Fitzroy group. We had travelled from El Calafete. That town is a better place to stock up, but suffers from queues for petrol and sometimes the filling stations even run out. Also the banks often have no cash at the ATM's and even when they do they only allow small amounts to be withdrawn.

El Chalten. A dusty little town which is on the verge of big road and infrastructure improvements at the foot of Fitzroy and Cerro Torre. Plenty of good bouldering and low-level cragging in close proximity.

We stayed at the HI Hostel - Marco Polo Which was okay, but the kitchen was pretty small and did not have enough cooking pots. They also should put up a sign saying the water is not drinkable. They sell expensive bottled water 4 pesos more than the supermarket which is 15 minutes walk away, downtown.





Patagonia, Fitzroy & Cerro Torre, names for climber's dreams and high ambitions. Two peaks steeped in history and surrounded by brilliant trekking trails. We both felt that this area was the equal, if not better than Torres del Paine for trekking routes. More compact and drier than farther south and west, this area still suffers the cruel Patagonian winds that sweep down off of the Helio Sur towards the wide monotonous expanse of the Argentinean Steppe, divested of much of their moisture content by the Andes barrier.


As usual the wonderful canopy of Southern Beechwoods provide shelter from the catastrophic winds.

Decaying forest remnants, victims of wind and fire litter the land.


Wind erosion has caused this beach-like feature, some kilometres from the nearest river or lake.


As with Torres del Paine the better views (in my opinion) are gained from a distance, so we rented a car in El Calafete in order to allow flexibility and a chance to select good vantage points not offered by a rigid coach timetable. This paid immense dividends, as I was able to rise early in ElChalten one morning to catch truly evocative glimpses of the sunrise effect over the whole range.

0400 and the sun is rising towards the Andes.





Sue and I managed a couple of good days in the park, following new trails every day and spending one night at Campamento Poincenot, which is the starting point for the trek towards the Fitzroy viewpoint, only an hour or so uphill from the tent sites. The camping site is well sheltered from the rigours of the gales sweeping down from the granite spires. We heard disturbing stories of climbers having their gear stolen from camps whilst either ferrying loads or away climbing. This area is much more approachable to the climbing camps than Torres del Paine, so a good target for thieves on day/night trips from El Chalten , possibly on horseback! Hiding your kit or stashing it in more inaccessible spots might be the answer. Alternatively, put your final camp in a snow-cave away from prying eyes above the snout of the glacier. Whether this also applies to trekking kit I'm not sure, as trekking camps are usually heavily populated and maybe less prone to opportunist thieves.


All you need to view the spectre of an Andean sunrise on the granite towers is an alarm clock, a car to drive to the viewpoint and 'some' patience. This series of pictures were taken about fifteen minutes drive out of El Chalten between 0400 - 0500.


Later in the day the clouds roll in and wash out the sun.


0500


Afternoon

0400

Trekking beneath the soaring spires of Cerro Torre and the famous 'Ice-Mushrooms' on the summit block.


0430 and Cerro Torre

Good transport to high climbing camps with the local Lama team, rented in El Chalten.

No folks, you cannot take a coach to Antarctica, just across the Magellan Straits to Ushuaia, in order to board a vessel of some sort, heading south to the last southerly outposts on earth and the South Pole.

Check out Pueblo Viejo in Ushuaia. A great place to stay and very good at organising tours in advance for you. Thanks Freddy.

Magellan Penguins




This is a Gentoo Penguin and looked distinctly lonely as the only one amongst hundreds of the Magellan species located around the Beagle Channel.

Sea Lions and plenty of Cormorants in the Beagle Channel.

Ushuaia, the last city on earth, at least in southern latitudes. El Fin del Mundo.

We joined an excellent day cruise amongst the islands of the Beagle Channel.







Black-Browed Albatross .

We did not have much luck with our short stay in Punta Arenas We booked on a Trip to the Magellan Straits, which was cancelled due to strong winds. We then tried a typical evening meal at one of the local ranches, which was also cancelled due to strong winds demolishing a power line. The main square has ropes around it to enable visitors to hang on in case strong winds blow them into the street!

We enjoyed our stay in the Hostal Al Fin del Mundo with it's wide screen TV and a huge variety of DVD's, plus all the sports channels from home, including some Champion's League matches to catch up on. Priorities you know!!

Worthy of a short hike up the back of the city to view the rooftops and Magellan Straits. We came across one tour group just heading off to fly into Antarctica and walk to the South Pole. Plenty of other adventurers on tour ships and sailing yachts.


Signposts everywhere, indicating distances to a large variety of global locations.


Another colourful Plaza.


People in these parts certainly know how to brighten up their houses.

Puerto Natales is where the ferry drops expectant passengers and it provides a perfect base for many trips, including the Torres del Paine National Park. We stayed at the Nancy Hostel They can rent out all you need for trekking in the park and arrange transfers as well.

This proved to be the best hostel we have used on our travels and deserves to be recommended. It is not a 'Party' hostel, but offers a clean and friendly welcome in a family environment. They work hard and are often up until very late helping guests to plan their trips. Throughout Puerto Natales it is easy to find good food supplies and restaurants offering WiFi and trips. Every corner has an adventure agency and as usual provides smiles , early breakfast and help as standard.

Well done Puerto Natales. You can show my home town of Fort William, Scotland a thing or two about facilities for backpackers and adventure tourism.



A pleasant waterfront, clean and tidy.


The usual well kept central plaza.




Plenty of good coffee shops, all with free WiFi as standard.


Trips and more trips. Not a government tourist office in sight, as the locals have it 'sussed' themselves, and they all stay open late into the evening in order to get you booked up for the following day.


All the buildings are looked after proudly by their owners and provide a colourful back-drop to cruising the streets.

Black Necked Swans in abundance just off the beach at the bottom of the main street, Puerto Natales

In Patagonia the views and weather are both world class and extremely changeable. We arrived in Puerto Natales from the ferry about a week ago now. The time has been taken up trekking in the Torres del Paine National Park For folk such as myself, I find this a breath of fresh air. In Scotland the countryside generally and National Parks in particular rely on handouts from the government or voluntary contributions. Consequently they suffer from a distinct lack of facilities.

By comparison the Torres del Paine Chilean National Park charges for entrance and the benefits are obvious. Good paths, signage, viewpoints, toilets and campsites. All in an area which does not show the signs of people dropping too much (if any) trash.

Unfortunately, back home, the minority groups would complain about charging for access, even if it maintained and sustained the quality of the experience for the majority. What soap-box? Me? All views expressed here are mine only and do not represent Scottish Independent Hostels in any way.

More details at.

Torres del Paine just after dawn. The best pictures are to be found away from the main 'circuit' or 'W' trekking route.

Twisted Southern Beechwoods, amongst the hardiest trees in Patagonia.


The classic view above Campemanto Torres. Arrive early to possibly see the pink or orange glow on the granite towers. It doesn't last long. We were late and missed the spectacle. Take warm clothes as it can be a touch cold. There are plenty of spots to bivouac if you really want the best chance of catching the sunrise, but take a good sleeping bag.



We trekked parts of the classic 'W' circuit. The southern section travels along the shores of Lago Nordenskjold.


This was the best shot we achieved of a pair of Condor cruising above the towers.




Camping for free in the shelter of the Southern Beechwoods, 50 minutes beneath the viewpoint for the Central Towers of Paine. Toilets and shelter for cooking. Some campsites are free and others are charged, but also include access to meals in the adjacent huts. Even better than the European Alps.


Hosteria LasTorres base camp. Next door are hostels and campsites for those of us with less cash to 'burn'.


Plenty of wonderful colours amongst the spring growth.


This one (Cactus ?) is fondly known as 'Mother-in-Laws Cushion' . No known escape from awesome pain if you trip into this patch.


Huemul Deer. Only 5000 left and we saw two in different locations.


Plenty of opportunities to use horses for approach es to mountain trails.


Torres Paine National Park Chile.




'BIG' winds. Invisible boulders of giant proportions scream towards the sheltered campsites, amongst the Southern Beechwoods of Patagonia. Revealing themselves in clouds of scattered spume as the wind scoops aloft the lakeside foam.

Trashed tents after the winds have travelled through. Be sure to gain the shelter beneath the trees and scrub if you wish to stay in good shape. The noise is incredible, but passes by, leaving a standing camp, if well sited.

Poorly planted tents lay forlorn and torn amongst the brittle thorns of the low-lying scrub. We were using a Terra Nova, Voyager tent. Cheap tents are not to be recommended for trekking in Patagonia.

Interesting clouds


Torres Paine under threatening skies



We completed only part of the 'W'. Starting at Hosteria Las Torres, staying at Campamento Torres, then descending to camp at Hosteria Las Torres. This was followed by a camp at Los Cuernos. We finally took the Catamaran out from Lodge de Montana to camp at Camping Pehoe and the bus back to Puerto Natales.


Many trekking companies lay on all the facilities required, including tents, sleeping bags and food. All you need to carry are your waterproofs, some spare clothes and of course your large fat wallet and a camera. Most items are very cheap if you are coming from Europe or North America.

Camping next to the Lodge de Montana Paine Grande Once again, accommodation and facilities to suit all tastes and budget.

A short thirty minute trip on Lago Pehoe leads away towards the bus transport.


Hotel Explora Just a little out of our price range and style. We did pop in for a cup of coffee though! This hotel is well back from the main trekking routes as are all the large facilities. In the main season though, it will be hard to avoid crowds of people out enjoying this world class location.

Fortunately it is all sensibly managed and we did not see much evidence of poor trekking etiquette. Some of you reading this will no doubt disagree and hold the view that these remote and wild locations should be left to nature and no access encouragement offered to the masses. I certainly do not wish to see blatant exploitation on a huge scale. 'Honeypot' areas such as this, well managed and funded, will provide employment for many and in fact keep the masses away from the majority of the less well known wilder trekking routes. As in Scotland, it will always be possible to avoid the crowds if you have the skill and energy to hike a little further down the next glen. Believe me, it works, even in Torres del Paine.

Guanacos getting it all together.

A fragmented and splintered coast of remote and extreme proportions, unlike any other that
I have seen. South from Puerto Montt to Cape Horn may have been photographed from space, but much of the land has never trembled beneath the feet of mankind. The hinterland beyond the sheer shorelines must surely have repulsed exploration by simply looking fierce, unapproachable and impenetrable. The nomadic seafaring families of the 'First Families' rarely if ever went beyond the rocky beaches. Neither did they set up communities along this stretch of wild land, forced by the shape of nature to wander the myriad coastal inlets as a way of life in
search of sustenance. They were healthy and hardy people, able to withstand the cold, wind and drenching rain, which we would often struggle to remain alive in. Only later were they threatened and finally changed by the usual encroachment of global colonialism of which all of those who read this simple text are a part.

Check it out folks and as the 'Lonely Planet' says....."Explore the rugged beauty of one of the world's few remaining truly remote areas".... In doing so you will be part of the change which could erode only the edges of this wonderful land. Here you will see nature able to look after itself, so long as it is heavily 'managed' by organisations whose heart is in preservation rather than exploitation. That should not mean that we are denied access, only that the style of access leaves minimal (if any) trace. Tourism is undoubtedly part of the Chilean economy and must be encouraged without harm to the land.

Also, appreciate that change is part of nature's route. A nature that includes us at the top of the chain (?).

In the four days of our journey from circa Latitudes 41-51 Degrees South we saw only three other vessels, and one of those a wreck! We also stopped briefly at Puerto Eden to pick up additional passengers. Also, a coastguard helicopter skimmed close on the starboard quarter. Apart from these intrusions, the 250 lucky passengers aboard the Navimag Ferry (Evangelista) were treated to unusually splendid weather, as high pressure and southerly winds caressed our journey to Puerto Natales, gateway to modern Patagonian trekking.

Puerto Montt on the day of departure. Four glorious days ahead.


Many of the passengers imported drinks from ashore. The bar staff were very flexible to this means of staying in touch with an alcoholic haze and also served up those who preferred to purchase drinks on board.

Boarding at Navimag shore base.


A well-found vessel with all necessary regulation safety equipment.


The Captain and his crew were happy for guests to come onto the 'Bridge' and view proceedings.


'Cosy' is how I would describe the bunk rooms for four people!



Deck Chess never seemed to catch on, as most people enjoyed the sunshine and gathering remoteness all around.

Just one of many volcanoes.


A long lens pays dividends to draw in the distant mountain tops.



And that was only the end of day one :0))


At a number of channels the breadth of navigable room is limited. I believe we had around ten metres on either quarter at this point. Not surprising that a statue of Mary has been erected to protect mariners as they navigate this route. The ships horn was sounded as a mark of thankful respect!

Puerto Eden is one of the few communities along the whole of this four day journey and we stopped to unload supplies and pick up more passengers.

Puerto Eden

An unusual spell of settled weather is blessing our trip and we head out into the Gulf of Penas and a barely noticeable Pacific swell lifts the bows towards the lowering sun. Those on board who wisely bought remedies for sea-sickness sleep relieved and more calm than possibly they expected. The occasional lumpy sea is nothing to what might have been.

Waking early for the possibility of spectacular light on the mountains to the east is always worth the effort and on this trip the rewards were plenty. A solid area of high pressure was creating windless calm and plenty of sea mist (fog). The vessel carried on through sometimes clear or total fog-bound channels. The feature of a 'Brocken Spectre' is something I have witnessed many times in the mountains, but never from the upper decks of a sea-going vessel. It occurs when a strong back-lit sun casts your shadow onto mist beneath you. And as can be seen from the photo a halo effect is created.


Brocken Spectre





After the Polar regions of the Earth the Patagonian Helio Sur is the largest ice-cap around and defies the global pattern of reducing glaciers, as it grinds relentlessly towards the Patagonian Channels. Here we approached to a depth of 33 metres.




The stranded wreck of the Cotopaxi is now furnished with a navigation light to help those that follow to avoid its fate. They were unfortunate, as many of these sunken valleys reach depths over 1000 metres.


Chilean Coastguard Helicopter, skimming by to surprise the passengers, who up until this point had not heard or seen anything other than a wild and remote passage.


Heading out into the Gulf of Penas Normally a section of the trip which can be very rough, but on this occasion, pretty harmless and tranquil.